+43 The Best of NYFW AW22
New York Fashion Week seems to be a waning moon, as more and more designers ditch it for other fashion weeks, or avoid fashion month all together. What that meant, apart from leaving us with the boring staple brands like Michael Kors (yawn), it also leaves us with ample space for newer, smaller designers to take over.
Vetements’ inspiration this season was money, as proven by their multiple morphe suits covered in dollar dollar bills, yall, which clearly shows that money’s on the brain, because god know they’re not making any profit. Who even enjoys Vetements anymore? It’s like the street version of Balenciaga, consisting of thousand-dollar-poor-quality-cotton-tracksuits with face masks à la Kanye West. Not impressed.
Casablanca, the next price point down’s equivalent of Gucci has made 60’s travel wear complete with the colours of Panam and bowling bags. Ginormous raffia lampshade hats shelter cream skirt suits. Upping the luxe factor? Bvlgari did the handbags which not only proves that Bvlgari is trying to push into the accessories business, but that Casablanca is a brand to watch.
Alaïa’s new designer, Pieter Mulier, is going from strength to strength, and pulled out some incredible designs, including a belt inspired leather strapless dress, and some delicious knitted jumpsuits. Move over, Saint Laurent, Alaïa is the brand that all the rich, sleek women will turn to when they need a look to swan around the Lobby Bar at the Gstaad Palace. Trust me, I can see the future.
As for my fave Paco Rabanne, he didn’t acutally show during NYFW, he showed in January along with the couture collections instead of the prêt-à-porter, but god knows there are so many designers going rogue out of the fashion week schedule that I have to put them somewhere – and since NYFW is always a little lacklustre, why not spruce it up a bit with a lil’ bit of Paco. Very français this year, some of his looks wouldn’t have been so out of place in the Palais de Versailles, however shock-inducing due to the gargantuan amount of leg being shown. With ruffles and frooffy-frilly hips, alongside Paco’s classic sequin M.O., girly-girls are back in business, baby!
Proenza Schouler showed off some khaki suits complete with banded waists – is this a modern twist on Renaissance dressing? Is the revolution coming back? Big skirts also showed (again with the Versailles hips) and frooffy peplum tops.
Cut-outs made a big time appearance at NYFW, with barely there clothing seen at Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Eckhaus Latta, and Alaïa.
Large waist belts are back again, with black leather shown at Tory Burch, khaki cloth ones seen at Proenza Schouler, and of course that incredible black leather belt dress from Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa – probably my favourite look of America’s fashion week.
So, what can we take away from NYFW? Ruffles, black leather belts, crochet dresses, and the occasional sequin. Will we see a continuation of this at London Fashion Week, or will there be something new? Find out next week!